Posts Tagged ‘travel’

Epic Road Trip – Swiss Alps


For this half of the Two Tramps, cars have played a big part of the entire experience while living in Germany.  Before arriving, I went through a dream list of cars I would love to drive while we were here.  The criteria were relatively simple:

  • German (I have a penchant for German cars, having been raised surrounded by Volkswagens and BMW’s)
  • Something not available in the US (let’s face it: Europeans have many, many more choices than we do in the States, and often many better cars from which to choose)
  • Diesel.  Diesel is cheap(er), efficient, and the engines have torque.

Top on my list, then, was the BMW 1-series hatchback.  And lo and behold, with the help of a colleague and fellow 1-series diesel driver, I ended up with a 2007 120d.

BMW 120d.

Now, I surely did not get this car for the color.  Nor did I choose it because I like paying a premium for a car I used only a few times per month.  No, this was the right choice because BMW’s are driver’s cars.

And what better way to experience and enjoy the drive than through the Swiss Alps?

For my side of the family, the Road Trip is a way of life.  1400 miles (2200 km) in a weekend is no big deal.

My better half, though, has not quite come around to this way of thinking.  So, rather than subject her to strenuous speeds and curves, my Dad came for a visit just as Lauren left – and we headed for the alps.

Auf wiedersehen, Lauren!

You must have clearly defined roles on a Road Trip.  Otherwise confusion can set in.  Luckily, with only two participants, the roles are simple:

The Driver:

Russ and the 120d.

The Photographer:

Behind the scenes of the best pictures.

Of course since we’re both Drivers and Photographers, these roles are not set in stone.

The Driver photographing the Photographer. Driving.

And with that, we set out on a semi-soggy day in southern Germany, through cloudy Austria, along Liechtenstein, into Switzerland, and scraping Italy.  All in one day (even after more than a year here, this still impresses me).

Our base of operations was Chur, Switzerland, the country’s oldest city, and the seat of the Romansh-speaking region, though German dominates.  From Chur, we headed for the San Bernardino Pass, and other points.  Time to let the pictures do the talking.

The Pass looks like an intestine, which is directly related to the effect driving this road has on the stomach.

Complete with bells, which could be heard from quite a distance away.

Sittin' on top of the Pass (it was cold!).

Entering the Italian-culture region of Switzerland. Besides road signs, the GPS started calling number-named roads 'tredici' and 'due.'

We did not actually see this happen.

Beautiful, sunny, and warm: Locarno, on Lago Maggiore, where I pushed the German out of my head and tried my best to remember Italian.

Heading for the next pass.


Temperature dropped to 3 degrees C on top of Oberalppass (back to German-speaking).

I realized, suddenly, that I could no longer read the road signs. I know scuola in Italian, and schule in German. And now I know scola in Romansh.

And so our day ended back in Chur, as Dad kept track, 7.5 hours, 338 km, and 4.87 GB worth of pictures and videos later.

And I promise, Lauren, to take you back, and to stick to the straighter roads. 🙂


Ahoy, Matey! A Boat Trip to Satorini’s Active Volcano

Saturday was our FAVORITE day on the island!  We ended the previous night in Oia and were starting our morning back there, bright and early. The night before, we arranged a trip with a local travel agency.  The plan was to first get on a boat from the port at Oia and sail our way to the volcanic caldera. So, we hopped on a local shuttle with several other couples and made our way down to the port. After dropping us off, the shuttle bus was supposed to return to Oia in order to pick up the remaining passengers.

Port in Oia from above--blocked by the cliffs

Made it!

Here comes our boat!

Ahh! Crystal clear water

Within 10 minutes of boarding, we pulled away from the port.  Umm, and about that other busload of paid customers?? Well, turns out that after he dropped us off, the shuttle bus driver conveniently “forgot” about the rest of the patrons back in the village.  We watched him prop up his feet and smoke countless cigarettes.  Maybe, we thought, the next passengers get on a different boat?  Nope!  After getting 100 yards or so off shore, the shuttle bus came screaming down the road to the port, beeping its horn incessantly.  Apparently we had forgotten some people….duh!  We giggled as we returned to port to pick up the stranded customers.  Oh, Greece.

Pulling away from Port

Looking up at Oia

The water was a little choppy!

Fira from the boat

Nice Striations of Color

Approaching the volcano. Check out that volcanic rock!

Pulling into Port

After we pulled into port, we met with our tour guide, Mama Zoey.  Mama Zoey had lived on the island of Santorini all of her life and had been to the top of the volcano over 3,000 times!  No wonder she left us in the dust as she climbed!

Our group

This rock formation, as well as the island of Santorini, are what remains after a catastrophic volcanic eruption during the Minoan Times, long, long ago in 17 Century BC.  The islands themselves formed almost a complete circle, but after the powerful (7 magnitude) explosion, many of the islands have been completely underwater.  The legend of Atlantis actually dates back to this massive eruption, which is still one of the highest recorded ratings of any volcanic eruption. The colors of the beaches (red, white, and black) depend on which geologic layer was revealed after the top of the volcano literally blew off.  The volcano itself is still considered active with the last eruption having occurred in the 1950’s.

And so, with Mama Zoey providing all of the necessary information, we continued our way up to the top of the volcano. At one point she told us that we would be at the top in “4 Greek minutes.”  We learned enough from the bus schedule to know that 4 minutes could essentially mean either:

 1. We’re already on the top! 

2.  We’ve still got 15 minutes to go.  🙂

Volcanic Rock

Russ's need for photography landed us at the back of the group 🙂

Volcanic Crater


Near the top

Russ on the volcano


Beautiful panoramic views

from the volcano

At the top of the volcano we stopped to learn more about the history of the island, and Mama Zoey dug a hole and let us feel the sulfur-y steam that escaped.  No, there was not any lava.  But the panoramic view of the surrounding islands was beautiful! We spent 20 minutes simply enjoying our surroundings.  Afterwards, we made our way cautiously down and back to the boat.  Some of the women on the tour chose to wear sandals or cute shoes….to hike. up. a .VOLCANO.  I had no sympathy for them when they slid their way down the mountain with dusty feet.  Mean? maybe.  But, seriously people.

After we arrived back at the boat, we headed to our second destination–the lava-heated mineral baths.  The boat stopped about 100 meters away from an area where the water turned considerably browner.  I had every intention of getting off of the boat and swimming in the mineral water–until Mama Zoey explained to us that it’s possible we’ll come back dirty and it’s most probable we’ll smell like sulfur for the rest of the day.  As one fellow traveler said to me, “THAT wasn’t in the brochure.”  It certainly wasn’t, but it was hot, and we had just climbed a mountain, and besides, who wants to miss an opportunity to jump off of a boat in the middle of the Aegean??  Not me.  I decided to swim…in an area away from the stinky water.

Others swim towards the mineral baths

I kept myself in the "unstinky" water

The spec on the right is me, making my way towards the church


So incredibly refreshing!! After we successfully loaded all of the swimmers back into the boat (trust me, it wasn’t that easy), we headed to our final destination, the island of Therasia, for lunch.  Therasia has a population of about 300 people, mostly fisherman.  There’s a school, but they don’t really have enough kids for it. 😉

Gyros for lunch and a great view

The Port

The several hundred stairs lead up to the actual town


some of the other "restaurants" at the port

Fun day!


When we got back to Oia, we took the bus to our hotel, where we spent some time swimming and relaxing.  I’m pretty sure we went back into Fira that night for dinner, but we actually have *gasp* no pictures!  It was nice for Russ to walk around and enjoy the environment without worrying about pictures.  I can assure you, though, the sunset was amazing. 🙂

Day 3–Swimming in the Aegean

For day 3 in Santorini we had two main items on our agenda–half a day at the beach, the rest of the day in Oia to await the sunset.  Sunsets in Oia are largely purported to be the most beautiful in all of the world.  We were already thinking it would be difficult to top what we saw from Fira!

There are many beaches on the island of Santorini, some more desirable than others, and some that are even impossible to reach.  And they come in various colors–red, white, and black!  The red beach is accessible by foot after a slightly treacherous trail; the white beach is only accessible by boat (and then un-read tourists realize they have to wade their way towards shore in waist-high water); the black beaches are the most easy to access and probably the most popular because of it.

We headed to Kamari beach.  I wanted to head to a black beach for aesthetics, so we were deciding between the famed beaches of Perissa or Kamari.  Unbeknownst to me, Russ had an ulterior motive.  He knew which beach provided the best, up-close-and-personal view of planes coming in to land at the Santorini airport.  And so, to Kamari we went!

Kamari Beach

the beach

We set up shop under one of the cute little umbrellas with beach chairs (3€/person for the whole day).  It was quite nice to lounge on the beach chairs as the sand is less like sand and more like rocks.  Shoes or sandals necessary.

Lauren at Kamari Beach

Incoming! Good view from underneath our umbrella

The sheer “coolness” of being at Kamari beach did not really hit me til we got in the water.  Umm, hello, we’re swimming in the Aegean Sea!  I’m pretty sure that was my exact statement!  It was so different than swimming on the east or west coast of the US.  After wading out to our thighs in the rocky water, it got deep FAST!  And of course the scenery is just ridiculous. I wish I could give you a picture from the water. 🙂

These people already can't touch

Rows of umbrellas on Kamari Beach

After a morning/early afternoon at the beach, we headed to Oia to check out the town and stay around for the famed sunset.  We wanted to get there early because we heard about the swarms of people who make their way to Oia around 6 o’clock.  We’d also seen the hoards of people piled onto the buses, barely standing room only.  Plus, we figured that there’d be enough to do there.

We were kind of wrong.  Don’t misunderstand me, Oia is a beautiful place.  It has a definite charm to it and is a lot more “village-like” than the city of Fira.  We were definitely intrigued and wowed by the architecture and  the view.  We enjoyed walking around through the narrow-alleys and panting our way up stone step after stone step.  But it was HOT.  and WHITE.  and REFLECTIVE. The stores and restaurants were definitely limited compared to Fira, but we found enough places to stop and have a cool drink when necessary.


streets of Oia

Blue-dome church again

Russ in Oia

We stopped here for a drink...not too shabby!

hanging off of a cliff

I can't help myself. I find friends everywhere.

and these guys love me!

but these guys are jealous. dogs and cats everywhere!!

church in Oia


People starting to assemble on the old castle for sunset viewing

The real “village” atmosphere smacked us in the face when we decided we should probably get some money out of an ATM.  We remembered seeing one by the bus station, so we walked back down the hill to procure some funds.  Unfortunately, the ATM had run out of money (it’s Friday).  It wouldn’t be refilled until Monday.  Totally fine, except there literally is not another ATM in Oia.  The next closest one–Fira.  🙂


After our second drink stop, we started to get into position for sunset viewing.  Seriously, an almost-deserted town can certainly manifest a lot of bodies all at once!  It’s best to secure a spot early on!

We've got a good hour to go.

but the crowds are building

sunset in Oia

Crepe in Greece? Why not.

a glimpse of the donkeys that carry people up from the port

getting closer


The end.  🙂  Another beautiful and exhausting day completed.  Day 4, coming up, was absolutely our best of the trip, so be sure to check back soon!


Santorini Day 2

Relaxation started to set in on our second day.  I want you to know that it takes A LOT for me not to plan what we are going to do on a vacation.  Typically, I spend a lot of time researching, buying tickets, making reservations, and learning the ins-and-outs of our environment.  For Santorini,  Russ and I both agreed to play it by ear and explore our surroundings at a leisurely pace.  So we slept in a little on Thursday and ordered our breakfast.  Breakfast at Meli Meli is served on your patio so you can enjoy the beautiful weather and view.

Breakfast time

Our Patio

We had briefly read about a hike from the city of Fira to the city of Oia and totally wanted to experience hiking up the mountains from one side of the island to the other.  It sounded like an amazing experience, standing on top of the volcanic-rock mountains and staring out into the vast surrounding ocean.  We took the bus to Fira to start our journey and from there, headed uphill.

Climbing toward Imerovigli and Oia

Walking up the hill towards Imerovigli and Oia

From whence we came...looking back towards Fira

Russ looks cool, but it was HOT!

We walked, and walked, and walked.  We were supposed to come to certain checkpoints that pointed our way to Oia.  The first was a church that was painted white, had bells, and was topped with a blue dome.  Newsflash: all the churches in Santorini look the same.

Could this be it?

We made our way to Imerovigli, the next village up on the hill and wandered around for a long time searching for our next checkpoint.  Ok, we were lost.  And hot.  We could see Oia from our vantage point, and it looked really far away.  We had already been walking for 2 hrs, and the original hike we referenced suggested the total hike time as 1-2 hrs.  Clearly, we did something wrong.

Never fear, though.  Without having our whole trip planned out, we could change our course and feel okay about it.  We decided to scrap the hike (since we never found the real trail) and find a nice shady spot for lunch.  And we did.  There is nothing like a nice, fresh plate of Tzatziki to cool you down!  We enjoyed fruit smoothies, grilled veggies, and tzatziki before heading back to our hotel to take an afternoon dip!

Yes, please!

The view from our hotel

In the evening we headed to Fira again for dinner.  We had seen (through the bus window) this great little restaurant we were longing to try.  It was off the main strip, away from all the tourist traps, and was surrounded by trees and plants.  We decided we were drawn to it because it was similar to a German biergarten! 🙂

The Pelican Restaurant

Russ enjoyed sampling the Greek beer, and for me, the wine was just fine


After a delicious and relaxing dinner (with free Santorini dessert wine–so sweet it was almost syrupy!), we headed back into town to see our second sunset.

If you could only see the amount of flashes going off!


sunset in Fira


sunset end

Tomorrow—the beach! 🙂

It’s all Greek to me!

When we originally started planning our last big shebang in Europe, we debated over going back to Italy or taking a trip to London.  We were fairly certain, however, that we’d take a trip to London at another point in our lives, and we knew that we’d definitely be heading back to Italy.  We needed something completely different.  Enter Greece and the island of Santorini.

Islands in the Aegean--this one's not Santorini

We took a direct flight from Nuremberg to the island, arrived at a small airport that literally only receives about 6 incoming flights a day, and hopped into a transport van.  Our driver flew around the curves of the island on the 1 1/2 car width roads, constantly beeping his horn, dodging donkeys and 4-wheelers.  We were slightly alarmed when he dropped off one of the other couples with us in the van.  He called out their hotel, “Tennis Club.”  We looked around.  Dust, brush, and a very, very old tennis court.  As we drove away, we watched the couple stand in the middle of the road, uncertain of their surroundings, and positively confused as to where they were supposed to go.  Luckily for us, when we pulled up to our hotel, I recognized it right away.

Hotel Meli Meli

Meli Meli from the back

We breathed a sigh of relief to have arrived safely and were promptly greeted by the hotel manager who showed us around and got us settled.  We spent an hour or so resting and enjoying the view into the sea.   Looking out from our hotel was amazing; only 1/3 of your field of vision was taken up by the ground and buildings.  The remaining 2/3 were filled with bright blues, either of the ocean or the sky.

The view from our terrace

Looking out from the hotel

Most visitors on the island end up renting some type of vehicle in which to get around.  Popular choices are smart cars, 4-wheelers, and scooters.  However, we knew that there was a bus stop 200 meters from our hotel.  Why rent a vehicle when the buses are that close?  We found out why.  On Santorini, the buses could be anywhere from 10 minutes early to 20 minutes late.  They only stop to pick you up when you wave to them (we found this out the hard way), and they only let you off at your stop if you tell them about it when you get on (we also found this out the hard way).  It really left us saying, “This is Greek to me!” We eventually got the hang of the system, though I think Russ always felt a little unsure. 🙂

Anyway, Santorini is one of the largest of the Cyclades islands in the Aegean sea. It is shaped like a moon with an island in the middle, the remainder of the volcanic caldera.  In the past, all of this was just one island, but after a particularly gruesome volcanic explosion, Santorini as it is today is what remains.

On the island there are really 3 main villages where tourists typically spend their time (excluding the beaches, for now): Fira, Oia, and Imerovigli.  Fira, the capital of the island, is on the western side of the island and where we headed our first night (after we figured out how to get on the bus).  Fira is the center of life on the island with shops, banks, restaurants, and an amazing view. Notable, of course, is the architecture of Santorini.  Beautiful white building hang on the sides of cliffs and blue domed churches peer out amongst them.

Church in Fira

Restaurants on the cliffs of Fira, looking out towards the caldera

Houses and hotels of Fira

After climbing higher up

view from Fira

Our view from our dinner spot

Of course one of the most popular past times on the island is watching the sunset.  I’m pretty sure we did this almost every night we were on the island; we changed vantage points, but the show was always the same.  And it was always amazing.  It’s times like these when we felt really fortunate to have been given a year abroad, when we realized that we probably never would have been able to do or see what we have been lucky enough to experience.  Watching sunsets in Greece? Not an every day event.

sunset falls

sunset in Fira

sunset from Fira

sunset over the caldera


We spent 5 wonderful days on Santorini.  Stay tuned for the rest of our adventures and for more of Russ’s beautiful photographs!

Water Tricks and Zoology

I’m warning you now.  If you don’t feel like looking at a bunch of animal pictures, you can opt out of this post.  But the zoo at the Hellbrunn Palace was so totally worth it, not just because of the animals, but because of its proximity to the Alps and the fact that it’s actually built into the side of a mountain.  Before we spent our afternoon and early evening animal-viewing, we spent some time at the Palace itself where we were introduced to the Prince archbishop’s trickery and deception–water-style.

The Palace itself is named for the clear spring that feeds the palace and surrounding fountains.  Rumor has it that on warm summer days, the prince-archbishop would gather his friends in the gardens, lure them toward his various fountains and grottos, and soak them thoroughly.

Hellbrunn Palace

The start of the fountain grounds

We don’t have very many pictures of the gardens.  As soon as Russ found out that random guests would at times receive a very soggy welcome, his camera went into hiding.  Regardless, it was fun watching all the kids and “brave Americans” on the tour get targeted by our tour guide and squeal with laughter when water undoubtedly shot from some unidentifiable area.

One great area was the bishop’s table, a stone table set up in the garden where the head of the house often dined with his guests.  At some point during their visit, water would shoot out from the middle of the table and from the back of the guests’ chairs, soaking everyone, except for the dry princebishop, of course.

Hellbrunn Trick Table-picture borrowed from

At other times we were led into grottos or told to stand on staggered steps to view a puppet show propelled by water.  It’s an uneasy feeling, knowing that there will be water coming from somewhere but not knowing where or when it could get you.  In some cases, the water shot out from behind you, from the floor, or from the sides of the walls.  No one was safe. It was fun!  Russ and I almost made it through the entire display.  Right at the end, however, I got sprayed right in the thigh.  It was after one of those relief-filled moments when I thought I was in the clear.  Then….wet.  It felt like one of those slow-motion sequences in movies when someone gets shot.  Almost made it!

Russ's camera makes a reappearance...far away from the trick fountains

After enjoying the tour, we headed over the Salzburg Zoo, a quick 5 minute walk from the Hellbrunn Palace.  First of all, let me just say that I love zoos.  No one has to convince me to go to one, but the incentive to visit becomes even higher when the zoo is surrounded by scenery like this:

View from Salzburg Zoo

Love the parrots in the foreground of the mountains


We had a fantastic time walking around and enjoying both the scenery and the animals.  I’ll share some of our favorites below. By the way, the safety fences and guard rails at the zoo are definitely a bit more lax than US standards!

Brown Bear


House mouse and House Rat exhibit

There's very little perspective for how small this guy actually is, but think "ping-pong ball"


"Do you understand 'wolf-speak'?" We liked this one because it clearly identifies our shy pups

Flip up the poster and read about what the position of the animal means:

"I don't have anything to say," submission, anxiety. And beside that, "I want to play!"

I can't get over it.

Don't pet the monkeys!

This little dude was sitting right over us as we went through the monkey house

Nice view, monkey.

Big Kitty


Giant cat with giant bone...glad there's a fence

Red Panda...Russ's Favorite

We had a really fantastic visit to Salzburg and feel really lucky that we made it there before our travels end.  By the way, as of today, I only have one month left to live European-style.  A sense of bittersweetness is starting to invade all of our travels.  For now, though, we’ll enjoy every second we have left…especially our upcoming travels to the Greek island of Santorini!




The moon rises over Salzburg


To check out all of Russ’s photos from our Salzburg weekend:


And a final note: If any of you painters out there (ahem, Aunt Maryanne) feel compelled to paint any of these beautiful images that we’re showing you, we won’t claim copyright. 🙂


The Hills are Alive in Salzburg


This past holiday weekend (Whit Monday), we headed to the famous hills of Salzburg for a long weekend.  Yes, we did sit down and watch The Sound of Music before embarking on our journey.  2 hrs in, Russ was begging for mercy.  It did help him, however, understand what all those other crazy American tourists were talking about. 🙂  Needless to say, we did not take the Sound of Music Tour that ushers you to well-known destinations from the movie…between what I can imagine is loud, joyous, (and thoroughly American) sing-a-longs of “Do-Re-Mi,” “My Favorite Things,” and “16 Going on 17.”

On Saturday it rained.  And rained.  And rained.  We hadn’t arrived til later in the afternoon (around 4), so we figured we’d walk around for the evening, maybe hit up a Mozart museum, have some dinner, and call it a night.  When we arrived at the first Mozart museum, The Mozart Family Residence, it was closing in an hour.  Not enough time.  That’s when we really looked at our list of activities–EVERYTHING closed at 5:30.  We hustled to the lesser-reputed Mozart Museum, the Birth-house, and found that the hour we had left was plenty of time to work our way through the exhibits there.

Mozart's Geburtshaus

Afterwards we toured the cathedral, the Salzburger Dom. The dome itself was replaced in 1959, years after a WWII bomb had dropped right through.  The church itself is massive and quite beautiful, though seemingly plain from the outside.  Inside, there are stucco and paintings everywhere, and the organs are massive.  Mozart himself played in this cathedral for a few years.

Salzburger Dom

Another view of the cathedral--obviously taken the next day

After seeing the cathedral, we sought out some dinner and a café for some coffee and a piece of cake.  The town seemed throughout closed.  When we finally found a café and happily got out of the rain, the proprietor told us that they were closing in 15 minutes!  It was 7:00 PM.  Eventually we did find a great cup of coffee and a slice of Sachertorte, after which we decided to call it a night and hope for better skies tomorrow.



The Austrian flag

Amazingly, with a little more sunshine and slightly drier pavement, Salzburg came alive.  Restaurants set up their outdoor seating and while all shops weren’t open (it was Sunday), it was obvious that Salzburg is actually a living, breathing town.  We headed to the historic old town and hit up some of the sights we missed on Saturday.

Streets of Salzburg

McDonald's Salzburg-style

Mozart's Residence

We went back to Mozart’s Residence and toured through there with an audio guide.  It was interesting, but there’s something about audio guides that Russ and I really dislike.  Is it the fact that anyone could have had this up to his/her ear before me?  No, pretty sure it’s how whenever someone uses an audio guide, they immediately can’t seem to watch where they’re going.  😉

Next,we headed toward Mirabell Palace to check out the gardens and get some of the fresh mountain air.

Mirabell Gardens


Mirabell Gardens

The Gardens with a view of the Palace

SOM trivia question 1: Name the scene where the Pegasus statue was featured.

Cool View up to the Fortress--Our Next Destination

After enjoying the flowers in the gardens, we wanted to take advantage of the clear skies and get to the highest vantage point in case the sunshine was only temporary.  The Fortress, seated 400 ft. above the river, watches over the town of Salzburg.  It’s always done a pretty good job, too; it prevented anyone from attacking the town for about a thousand years.

At the top there are several museums and some spectacular views of the city below.

Approaching the Fortress

Salzburg and the River Salzach

Good View of the Dom

From the Fortress Tower

"Oh, Mother. I just couldn't help myself. The gates were open and the hills were beckoning and everything was so green and fresh, and the Untersberg kept leading me higher and higher, as if it wanted me to go right through the clouds with it."


Looking toward the rest of the fortress

More of the Fortress

Russ in Salzburg


When we weren’t taking the views, we spent the rest of our time at the top of Salzburg going through several of the museums; we started with the Fortress museum, where we got access to the top of the towers, and then headed to the creepiest museum of all.  The Marionettes. Russ took no pictures of the Marionette exhibits, I suppose for fear that they’d come alive at night?

I tried my hand at the art



Instead of taking the funicular down the hill, we decided to walk and get some more great views of the town.


Heading down the mountain

Approaching the Dome

Our dining spot from Saturday night--and Russ's favorite beer. Don't tell Germany!

Aaaand we made it!

I exaggerate.  It really wasn’t a very long walk.  However, we were feeling pretty grateful when the people climbing up the hill were passing up, sweating and panting.  Our all-inclusive Salzburg card turned out to be quite the bargain. 🙂

There’s more to Salzburg and more to our Sunday, but I’m saving it for another post.  Next time look forward to Hellbrunn Castle and Prince-Archbishop Sittikus’s famous trick fountains. Oh, and a really really cool trip to the Salzburg Zoo. 🙂